Mushroom grow kit guides

Grow Kit Guides.

Every Cylocybe kit, step by step, in one place. Pick your kit below for its exact method, or read the basics that apply to every grow first. Honest, thorough, and free, whether you bought from us or not.

Choose your kit

Find your guide

Click your kit to load its step-by-step guide right here on the page. Each one is tailored to that exact kit: its contents, volumes, timings and yields.

Two-stage (grain to bulk)

Single-stage box

PF-Tek cakes

All-in-one bag

Agar lab

Grow lab system

Grain spawn

All-in-one tub

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Grow guide

MonoBox

Difficulty Intermediate Time to harvest About 4 to 6 weeks View the MonoBox →

The MonoBox is a two-stage kit: you colonise a sterile tub of grain first, then mix that living grain into the bulk coir inside the box. That extra stage is a little more hands-on than an all-in-one kit, but spreading colonised grain through the coir gives you hundreds of starting points, so the substrate colonises fast and pushes generous yields. The steps below cover both the XL and XXL versions; where they differ, both numbers are given.

What is in your kit

XL MonoBox

1.6L HEPA-filtered grow box
1000mL SteriCoir pre-sterilised coco-coir substrate
1 sterile grain SpawnTub (approx. 650mL grain)
XL grow tent
Chlorhexidine alcohol wipes, hand wipes, face mask
Sterile gloves (optional but advised)

XXL MonoBox

3.1L HEPA-filtered grow box
2000mL SteriCoir pre-sterilised coco-coir substrate
2 sterile grain SpawnTubs (approx. 1300mL grain)
XXL grow tent
Chlorhexidine alcohol wipes, hand wipes, face mask
Sterile gloves (optional but advised)

You add

Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (not included)
XL needs 1.5 to 2mL total. XXL needs 1.5 to 2mL per tub (3 to 4mL total)
A fresh sterile needle

The substrate is now SteriCoir, which ships pre-sterilised and pre-hydrated, so there is no microwaving or steam-prep step. (Older Mycowavable kits from before March 2025 needed that step; current kits do not.)

Why two tubs in the XXL

The XXL ships with two SpawnTubs partly for size and partly as insurance. If one tub picks up contamination during colonisation, you bin it and carry on with the healthy one. With the XL you have a single tub, so clean technique at the inoculation step matters that bit more.

Inoculate the grain SpawnTub

Work in a small, clean, draught-free space, ideally a Still-Air Box (see Universal basics for sterile technique). Shower, fresh clothes, mask on, hands and forearms wiped. Fit a fresh needle to your syringe and take the tub(s) out of the box. Wipe the grey rubber injection port on the lid with an alcohol wipe, then inject through it, aiming the needle towards the edge of the tub and depositing the solution there. Never inject through the pink HEPA filter, and never touch the lid rim or the filter. Give each tub a firm shake afterwards to spread the inoculant, which noticeably speeds colonisation.

XL: 1.5 to 2mL into the one tub. XXL: 1.5 to 2mL into each of the two tubs. Flame the needle between tubs if reusing.

Colonise the grain

Put the tub(s) back inside the cardboard box they arrived in (it shelters them and still lets the mycelium breathe, so never use an airtight container) and leave them somewhere warm and still. Trace the growing edge with a marker if you want to confirm progress without handling them. Yellowish liquid is normal metabolites, not contamination. You are done when the grain is fully covered in healthy white mycelium. Do not open the tub before that point.

Aim for about 24C, anywhere steady from 18 to 24C is fine. Never use a heat mat. Roughly 2 to 3 weeks.

Spawn the colonised grain to the coir

Wash up and glove up. Set aside a good handful of coir for the casing layer later. Tip the rest of the coir into a large bowl, open the tub(s) and tip the colonised grain in on top. The grain comes out as solid blocks: break it apart into individual kernels, since every kernel is a fresh inoculation point. It takes some force to start, but try not to crush the grains. Mix it through the coir thoroughly, the more evenly spread, the faster it colonises. Tip the mix back into the MonoBox.

XXL: mix in both tubs. If one tub contaminated, proceed with just the healthy one.

Add the casing and colonise the substrate

Spread the handful of coir you saved over the top in a thin layer until no grain is showing. This casing holds surface humidity and encourages even pinning. Put the lid on and keep it warm and still. This is the make-or-break stage: you want the substrate to colonise quickly so the mycelium outruns any microbes. Once it looks fully white, give it another 3 days so the unseen centre finishes too. Do not open the box before then.

Aim for about 24C, steady. Roughly 10 days, plus 3 days to be safe.

Move to fruiting

Lift the fully colonised block (the cake) out of the box and stand it inside the grow tent, then fold the top of the tent over so humidity builds. The moisture is already held in the cake from the substrate, so do not mist this kit unless it visibly dries out. For fresh air, cut a 1cm slit through both sides of the tent near the top and run a room fan on low nearby. Give it indirect daylight or a 6 to 7000K LED a few feet away. Only open the tent to harvest, since even a brief peek drops humidity and can abort pins.

Drop to about 20 to 22C for fruiting. Pins appear in roughly 3 to 7 days, then 4 to 5 days to mature.

Harvest, then dunk for the next flush

Harvest each mushroom just as the veil under the cap begins to tear, before the spores drop and make a mess. Cut at the base with a clean scalpel or knife. Mushrooms around the sides and bottom of the cake are fine to take too. After the flush is fully picked, dunk the cake to rehydrate it (see Universal basics for the dunking method), then drain and return it to the tent for the next flush.

Dunk 6 to 24 hours between flushes. Expect several flushes, each smaller than the last.

At a glance

Method: Two-stage, grain spawn to bulk coir
Vessel: 1.6L box (XL) or 3.1L box (XXL), HEPA-filtered
Substrate: SteriCoir coco-coir, pre-sterilised (no microwaving)
You inoculate: The grain SpawnTub via its rubber port
Inoculant: 1.5 to 2mL (XL) or 3 to 4mL total (XXL), not included
Colonise grain: About 24C, ~2 to 3 weeks
Colonise substrate: About 24C, ~10 days plus 3
Fruiting: About 20 to 22C, in the grow tent
Pre-fruit dunk: No, dunk between flushes only
Expected yield: 500 to 600g+ (XL), 800 to 1000g+ (XXL) across flushes

Break the grain right up

The single biggest lever on this kit is how evenly you spread the grain through the coir. Individual kernels mean hundreds of inoculation points and a faster, safer substrate colonisation. Lumps left intact colonise slowly and give microbes a window.

No misting needed

Unlike some kits, the MonoBox holds its fruiting moisture in the cake. Leave it alone unless it visibly dries. If you see water pooling against the substrate, dab it away with a paper towel before it turns.

More headroom

For more room to fruit next time, swap the tent for a fruiting chamber. The CyLab product page shows results from fruiting a MonoBox cake inside its chamber.

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Grow guide

MonoBag

Difficulty Intermediate Time to harvest About 4 to 6 weeks View the MonoBag →

The MonoBag is the same proper grain-to-bulk grow as our MonoBox, just with no tubs or boxes to handle. Your grain spawn comes in sterile SpawnBags with an inject-through InocuPort, and once they run white you mix them with the sterile coir inside the long MonoBag and fruit straight from the bag. It comes in two sizes, XL and XXL, and the method is identical for both (the XXL simply gives you two SpawnBags and more substrate).

An honest word on difficulty and yield

This is not a peel-and-fruit kit. You do a genuine spawn-to-bulk mix in open air, which is the single step most contamination problems trace back to, so it sits a notch above the all-in-one bags in difficulty. Get that one step clean and the payoff is real: tub-sized harvests across several flushes, more than the simpler kits will give you.

What is in your kit

XL MonoBag

1 sterile SpawnBag of rye grain with an InocuPort (the inject-through port)
1000 ml of sterile coir-based substrate (sterilised by us, no cooking or hydrating needed)
XL MonoBag with filter patches (the long bag you mix and fruit in)
XL grow tent

XXL MonoBag

2 sterile SpawnBags of rye grain, each with an InocuPort (two bags also means a backup if one fails)
2000 ml of sterile coir-based substrate, sterilised and sent fresh once your spawn has colonised (so it arrives in its own delivery)
XXL MonoBag with filter patches
XXL grow tent

Hygiene and instructions

Chlorhexidine alcohol wipes and hand wipes
Facemask
Sterile gloves (optional but well worth using)
Sterile needle, and the growing instructions

You add your own

A gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (not included). XL needs 1.5 to 2 ml in its one SpawnBag. XXL needs 1.5 to 2 ml in each of its two bags (3 to 4 ml total).

What makes this kit different

No tubs, no boxes, no casing layer, and no substrate to cook or hydrate yourself, the coir is already sterilised. The MonoBag is just the MonoBox method done in a bag. One thing worth knowing on the XXL: its sterile coir is sent fresh once your spawn has finished colonising, so the bulk turns up as a separate delivery, ready to use. If you would rather it all arrived at once, email us before you order. The one genuinely open-air moment is mixing the colonised grain into the coir inside the bag, so treat that as the careful step and the rest is forgiving.

Step by step

Inoculate the SpawnBag

Work in the cleanest, most draught-free space you can (a Still-Air Box is ideal). Wash your hands and forearms, put the mask on, and wipe the InocuPort with an alcohol wipe. Fit the sterile needle and inject your syringe through the port, never through the filter patches, then gently work the bag to spread the inoculant through the grain. XL is one SpawnBag at 1.5 to 2 ml. XXL is both bags, 1.5 to 2 ml each, which also gives you a fallback if one bag fails.

Keep handling to a minimum. Do not touch the filter patches.

Colonise the grain

Keep the SpawnBag(s) somewhere warm, dark and steady (the box they arrived in is a good shelter, never anything airtight, the mycelium needs to breathe through the filter). The rye turns white as the mycelium spreads. Do not open the bag before it is fully colonised.

Full grain colonisation usually 2 to 3 weeks. Aim for about 24C (anywhere 18 to 24C is fine if steady, 24C colonises noticeably faster than 18C). No heat mat.

Spawn into the MonoBag

This is the one open-air step, so work clean and quick: wash up, settle the air, mask on, and now put on the sterile gloves. Pour all the sterile coir into the MonoBag (the long bag with the filter patches), then open the fully colonised SpawnBag(s) and tip the grain in with the coir. For the XXL, add both colonised bags (or just the healthy one if a bag failed). Twist the end of the MonoBag and squeeze through the plastic to break the grain into individual grains, mixing it through the coir as evenly as you can. Even mixing means faster colonisation, and faster colonisation gives contamination less chance to take hold.

Do not open a SpawnBag until it is 100 percent colonised.

Knot it into a block

The MonoBag is deliberately long. Twist the bag where the coir and grain stop and tie a knot right there, so the mix is held in one tight, compact block with no loose air space. It should look like a beef wellington (or, for the Scots, a haggis). A tight block colonises evenly and fast.

Back to warm and dark after knotting.

Colonise the substrate

The mycelium spreads out from every grain until the whole block is white. This is the make-or-break stage, so keeping the temperature steady here really matters. When it looks fully colonised, it does no harm to give it a few more days or even a week to be sure it is white all the way through, not just on the surface.

Substrate colonisation around 10 days at about 24C, plus a few days to be safe.

Open and fruit in the bag

The simplest method is to leave the colonised block in the MonoBag, stand it in the grow tent, and slice a big X across the top where you want mushrooms to come from (commercial farms fruit this way). If you prefer, take the block out and stand it up to fruit 360 degrees, or cut several Xs over the bag. Do not mist this kit unless it actually looks dry, the humidity comes from the water already in the substrate. Set up fresh air exchange (a small slit each side of the tent near the top, plus a low room fan) and give it indirect daylight or a 6 to 7000K light a few feet away. Only open the tent when you are ready to harvest, even a few seconds of peeking loses humidity and can abort pins.

Fruit a little cooler, about 20 to 22C. Pins (tiny white dots) appear in roughly 3 to 7 days, then 4 to 5 days to mature.

Harvest and reflush

Harvest each mushroom just as the veil under the cap begins to tear, before the spores drop and make a mess. Cut with a clean scalpel, or pull gently without tearing up the block. After a flush, dunk the block to rehydrate it (see the universal basics on dunking), drain off the excess, and put it back to fruit again.

Expect multiple flushes until the substrate is spent. The first flush is usually the biggest.

At a glance

Method: Two-stage, grain to bulk, fruited in the bag
Difficulty: Intermediate (you do a real spawn-to-bulk mix)
Stage one: Sterile rye SpawnBag(s) with InocuPort (1 for XL, 2 for XXL)
Stage two: Sterile coir-based substrate, mixed and fruited in the filter-patch MonoBag
Substrate prep: None, the coir is already sterile (XXL coir ships fresh once your spawn has colonised)
Inoculant: 1.5 to 2 ml liquid culture or spore syringe per SpawnBag (not included)
Colonisation temp: About 24C (18 to 24C steady is fine, no heat mat)
Fruiting temp: About 20 to 22C
Time to first harvest: About 4 to 6 weeks from inoculation
Expected yield: XL about 400 to 600 g+, XXL about 800 to 1000 g+ fresh over multiple flushes
Casing layer: None needed

Kit-specific tips

SpawnBags, not tubs

The grain lives in flexible SpawnBags with an InocuPort, and the long MonoBag is only the vessel you mix and fruit in. There is no rigid tub and no separate fruiting box to deal with.

XXL substrate ships when your spawn is ready

On the XXL the sterile coir is sent fresh once your spawn has colonised, so it arrives in its own delivery, ready to use. If you would rather everything turned up together, just email us before you order.

Wait for 100 percent grain colonisation

Do not open a SpawnBag until every grain is white. The mix step is the only time the inside meets open air, and opening early invites contamination. Break the grain into loose individual grains so it spreads evenly through the coir.

Do not mist, keep the air moving

This kit fruits on the moisture already in the substrate, so misting usually causes problems rather than solving them. Fuzzy mycelium at the mushroom bases or thin stems means it needs more fresh air, so widen the cuts or turn the fan up a little.

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Grow guide

MiNO

Difficulty Beginner to intermediate Time to harvest First harvest in as little as 4 weeks View the MiNO →

The MiNO is a small two-stage kit and a compact version of our MonoBox. You colonise a pot of sterile grain first, then mix that grain through the coir substrate in the MiNO Tub and fruit it inside the included grow tent. It teaches the same grain-to-bulk method as the bigger MonoBox and MonoBag, just on a small, forgiving scale, which makes it a good first kit if you want to learn the real process without committing to a big batch. Everything below is specific to the MiNO. For the shared theory (mycelium versus microbes, sterile technique, reading contamination, fresh air and humidity, dunking between flushes, and the troubleshooting list) see the Universal basics section above.

In the box

1 sterile Grain SpawnPot, pre-cooked and ready to inoculate through its port
1 MiNO Tub (the container the bulk grows and fruits in)
1 Coir Substrate Pot (the sterile bulk you mix the colonised grain into)
1 HEPA-filtered Grow Tent (holds humidity for fruiting, no misting needed)
1 chlorhexidine alcohol wipe, 1 hand wipe and 1 sterile needle
Link to the online step-by-step instructions

You add yourself

Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (not included). You need 1 to 1.5ml
Clean hands, a wiped-down surface, and a still room

Two stages, not one.

The thing that makes the MiNO different from a single-vessel kit is the handoff: the grain colonises first, then you combine it with the coir substrate. That extra step is where almost all the risk lives, so work clean and quick at the handoff and the rest of the grow looks after itself.

Step by step

Inoculate the Grain SpawnPot

Wipe the injection port on the Grain SpawnPot with the alcohol wipe and let it dry. Shake your liquid culture or spore syringe well, fit the sterile needle, then inject 1 to 1.5ml through the port. Spread the dose around rather than dumping it all in one spot so colonisation starts from several points at once. Wipe the port again and leave the pot sealed.

Day 0. Inject 1 to 1.5ml. Work on a wiped surface in a still room.

Colonise the grain

Keep the SpawnPot somewhere steady and out of direct sun. You will see white tufts within a week or so, then the white spreads grain to grain until the whole pot is colonised. A gentle shake once it is roughly a quarter to a third colonised speeds things up by spreading the mycelium, but only if the grain looks clean. If anything smells sour or shows colour, do not shake it.

About 1 to 3 weeks. Aim for around 24C, anywhere 18 to 24C is fine if it stays steady. Watch for condensation and never use a heat mat.

Wait for full colonisation

Do not rush the handoff. Let the grain go fully white and knit together, then give it a couple more days. Fully colonised grain has far more living mycelium to defend itself when it meets the bulk, which is the single biggest thing you can do to keep the next stage clean.

A few days after the grain looks finished.

Combine grain and coir (the spawn-to-bulk step)

This is the one moment your living grain is exposed, so do it fast and clean. Wipe your hands and the surface. Break the colonised grain up so it crumbles, then mix it evenly through the coir substrate in the MiNO Tub. Even mixing means the mycelium jumps the whole tub at once instead of crawling from one corner. Level the surface, close it up, and leave it.

A few minutes, done in one go. Keep it at the same colonisation temperature.

Let the bulk colonise

The mycelium now runs through the coir in the tub until the surface is mostly white. Leave it closed and undisturbed during this phase. Wait for the surface to go white and firm before you move it to fruiting.

About 1 to 2 weeks after combining. Same steady temperature, watch condensation.

Move to the grow tent to fruit

Once the surface is colonised, move the tub into the included HEPA-filtered grow tent and switch to fruiting conditions: cooler, brighter, with the tent providing humidity and clean air exchange. Let in indirect daylight. The MiNO needs no misting, the tent holds the humidity for you. See the Universal basics for the principles behind fresh air and humidity.

Move to around 20 to 22C. No misting needed.

Pins, growth and harvest

Small pinheads appear first, then grow quickly over a few days. Pick each one just before or as the cap opens, by gripping low and twisting gently rather than pulling. Harvest the whole flush together when most are ready.

Pins to harvest in roughly 5 to 10 days. First harvest in as little as 4 weeks from inoculation.

Rest, rehydrate and go again

After a flush the MiNO will usually give one or two more. Rehydrate the substrate between flushes as described in the Universal basics dunking section, then return it to the tent. Yields taper with each flush, so stop when the returns get small or any sign of contamination appears.

Each further flush about 1 to 2 weeks apart, until the substrate is spent.

At a glance

Kit type: Two-stage, grain to bulk (compact MonoBox)
You supply: Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe, 1 to 1.5ml
Inoculation: Inject the sealed Grain SpawnPot through its sterile port
Colonisation temp: Around 24C, anywhere 18 to 24C if steady. No heat mat
Fruiting: In the HEPA-filtered grow tent, cooler at around 20 to 22C with light. No misting needed
Time to first harvest: In as little as 4 weeks from inoculation
Yield: Around 50 to 100g or more of fresh mushrooms total, over several flushes
Best for: A first proper two-stage grow on a small, manageable scale

MiNO quirks worth knowing

The handoff is the whole game

Unlike a single-vessel kit, the MiNO has a moment where living grain is open to the air. Fully colonised grain, a wiped surface and a quick, even mix is what keeps that moment safe.

No misting required

Because it fruits inside the HEPA-filtered grow tent, the MiNO holds its own humidity. You do not need a spray bottle, which is part of what makes it low maintenance.

Small but generous for its size

A compact kit that can still give around 50 to 100g or more of fresh mushrooms in total across its flushes, and is easy to keep at a steady temperature.

Patience before the mix pays off

The commonest MiNO mistake is combining too early. Let the grain finish fully and the bulk stage almost runs itself.

Same method, bigger siblings

If you enjoy the MiNO, the MonoBox and MonoBag run the same two-stage grain-to-bulk method at larger volume, so the skills carry straight over.

For everything not specific to this kit (what good and bad colonisation look like, how to read contamination, the principles behind fresh air and humidity, and the dunking method between flushes) work from the Universal basics section above. This kit, like all of ours, ships sterile and uninoculated for gourmet and culture-collection use; you provide the culture, and all growing should follow the laws that apply where you live.

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Grow guide

MycoBox

Difficulty Beginner Time to harvest About 5 to 6 weeks View the MycoBox →

The MycoBox is the original Cylocybe grow kit and still the easiest place to start. It is a single-stage box: you inject your own gourmet culture straight into a sealed tub of ready-made substrate, leave it to colonise, then dunk and fruit. No grain-to-bulk transfer, no mixing, no second vessel. For the principles behind each stage (the mycelium-versus-microbes race, sterile technique, what contamination looks like, fruiting and fresh-air theory), see the Universal basics above. This section covers only what is specific to the MycoBox.

What is in your kit

In the box

1200ml MycoBox pre-filled with sterile Cylocybe Special substrate (organic rye grain with added coir, gypsum and coffee), sealed with a HEPA-filtered Inject-thru lid. Box is L18 x W12 x H7 cm.
Grey rubber injection ports in the lid (self-healing) plus white HEPA air-filter strips for clean air exchange.
XL Ultra Humid breathable grow tent (L32 x H49 cm) to fruit in.
1500ml of perlite for holding humidity in the tent during fruiting.
Hygiene kit: a 3-ply face mask, 2 hand wipes, 2 chlorhexidine wipes and 2 sterile needles.
The cardboard outer box it ships in, which doubles as the colonisation shelter (keep it).

You supply

A gourmet spore or liquid culture syringe (not included). You need 3ml to 6ml of solution per box.
A clean, draught-free spot to work, ideally a Still-Air Box.
A clean container deep enough to submerge the colonised cake for dunking.
A low room fan and an indirect light source for fruiting.

One box, one injection.

The MycoBox is a single-stage kit, so the substrate you inject is the same substrate you fruit from. There is no grain step to colonise first and no transfer later. That simplicity is the whole point, but it also means the box is fully exposed to the open air the moment you slide it out, so do your inoculation cleanly and quickly.

Step by step

Prep clean, then inject

Shower, fresh clothes, mask on, wiped surfaces, ideally inside a Still-Air Box. Slide the MycoBox out of its bag and wipe each grey rubber port with a chlorhexidine wipe. Fit a sterile needle and share your gourmet solution across all the ports, injecting deep into each one. Do not touch or remove the white air-filter strips, ever.

3ml to 6ml total across the ports. Keep handling to a minimum.

Colonise in the dark

Put the injected box back inside its cardboard outer (never an airtight container, the mycelium needs to breathe) and leave it somewhere warm, still and out of the light. Resist checking it. If you do spot anything that does not look like clean white growth, check it against the contamination guide in the Universal basics above.

Aim for about 24C, anywhere 18C to 24C steady is fine. Never a heat mat. About 4 weeks to full white colonisation, sometimes longer.

Wait for full colonisation

You are looking for the dark substrate underneath to be completely white. A dry vermiculite-style top layer that stays uncoloured is normal, so judge by the substrate, not the surface. Do not open the box before this point or you risk losing the whole grow to contamination.

100 percent white before you go any further. No exceptions.

Dunk the whole cake

Open the box, lift out the colonised cake (it comes out as one solid block) and submerge it fully in clean, room-temperature water. Weigh it down with a plate so it stays under, cover the container, and leave it. This is the rehydration that powers your first flush.

6 to 24 hours submerged. Longer is better, closer to 24 hours gives the best results.

Prep the perlite and set up the tent

Rinse the 1500ml of perlite in a strainer until it is soaking wet, let it drain, then spread it across the base of the grow tent for ambient humidity. Wear your mask while handling dry perlite, the dust is harmful to breathe. Lay a piece of foil slightly larger than the cake on top of the perlite so the cake never sits directly on it.

Rinse soaking wet, drain, mask on for the dry dust.

Rinse the cake and fruit

Rinse the dunked cake, let it drain, and place it on the foil in the tent. Fold the top over to hold humidity in. The humidity comes from the water the cake soaked up plus the wet perlite, so do not mist unless it looks visibly dry. Give it fresh air exchange with a small slit each side near the top and a low room fan, plus indirect daylight or a 6500K to 7000K light a few feet away.

Fruit a little cooler than colonisation, around 20C to 22C.

Pin, grow and harvest

Tiny white dots (hyphal knots) appear, become pins, then mature mushrooms. Only open the tent to harvest, since even a few seconds of peeking can cost humidity. Pick each mushroom just as the veil under its cap begins to tear.

Pins in roughly 3 to 7 days, then about 4 to 5 days to mature.

Dunk again between flushes

After harvesting, re-dunk the cake exactly as before to rehydrate it for the next wave. Dab away any water pooled in the tent so the cake is not sitting in standing water. Expect up to three or more flushes, each a little smaller than the last, with the first being the biggest.

Repeat until the cake stops producing.

The perlite is part of this kit.

Unlike the smaller single-stage kits where perlite is an optional extra, the MycoBox ships with 1500ml of perlite as standard. It sits under the cake (on a foil barrier) to keep the tent humid, which is why this kit needs no regular misting. Always wear your mask while rinsing the dry perlite.

At a glance

Method family: Single-stage substrate box (inject, colonise, dunk, fruit)
Vessel: 1200ml HEPA-filtered Inject-thru MycoBox, L18 x W12 x H7 cm
Substrate: Sterile Cylocybe Special: organic rye grain with coir, gypsum and coffee
You add: 3ml to 6ml of gourmet spore or liquid culture (not included)
Inoculation: Inject across the grey rubber lid ports
Colonisation: About 4 weeks (sometimes longer), aim 24C (18C to 24C steady is fine)
Pre-fruit step: Dunk the whole cake 6 to 24 hours
Fruiting: In the XL grow tent over wet perlite, around 20C to 22C, no misting
First harvest: Roughly 5 to 6 weeks from inoculation
Flushes: Up to three or more, re-dunk between each; first flush is largest
Best for: First-timers who want the simplest possible route to a harvest

Want it faster?

The MycDrop and MycoPots run the same simple method in a smaller vessel and colonise about twice as quickly, for a smaller harvest. The MycoBox trades speed for size.

Never open early

The single biggest cause of a ruined MycoBox is opening the lid before full colonisation. Until it is white through, leave it sealed in its cardboard box.

Gourmet and legal only

This kit is for cultivating legal gourmet species such as oyster, Lion's Mane, King Oyster and Shiitake. You supply your own gourmet culture.

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Grow guide

MycDrop

Difficulty Beginner Time to harvest About 4 to 6 weeks View the MycDrop →

The MycDrop is the simplest path we sell. There is no grain stage to manage and no mixing: the sterile substrate is already packed into its small HEPA-filtered MycoBox, so you inject your own gourmet culture straight through the ports, let it colonise, then dunk and fruit the whole block. It colonises about twice as fast as our larger MycoBox, and if this is your first grow it is a good place to start.

What is in your kit

In the box

750mL HEPA-filtered Inject-thru MycoBox, pre-filled with sterile substrate and sealed in its bag (L18 x W12 x H5cm)
Several grey rubber injection ports in the lid (a single port on the newest version), with white air-filter strips
XL HEPA-filtered Grow Tent for the fruiting stage (L32 x H49cm)
2 alcohol wipes, 2 hand wipes, a face mask and a pair of gloves for clean inoculation
Enhanced version only: 1.5L of perlite for extra humidity

You add

Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (not included), 2.5ml total (0.5ml per port)
A fresh sterile needle
A container deep enough to submerge the cake, for dunking
A clean spray bottle of water for occasional light misting (regular version)
A low room fan and an indirect daylight or 6000 to 7000K light for fruiting

Step by step

Inoculate the box

Work in a small, clean, draught-free room and follow the universal basics for sterile technique. Showered, gloved and masked, screw a fresh needle onto your culture or spore syringe. Wipe the outside of the sealed bag with an alcohol wipe, then slide the MycoBox out of the bag to expose the injection ports. Wipe the grey port (or all of them) and do not touch or peel the white filter strips. Inject 0.5ml into each port, no more than 2.5ml in total, then dispose of the bag.

A few minutes. 0.5ml per port, 2.5ml total. Wipe the bag, then each port.

Colonise

Put the box, lid on, back into the cardboard carton it arrived in to keep it clean and dark, and leave it alone. Aim for about 24C, though anywhere steady between 18C and 24C is fine. Keep it consistent and watch for condensation. Never use a heat mat. The mycelium needs to breathe, so never store the box in anything airtight.

About 2 to 3 weeks to full white colonisation. Aim ~24C, 18 to 24C steady is fine.

Dunk the cake

Once the substrate is solid white all the way through, open the box and lift out the colonised block, known as the cake. Submerge it fully in clean cold water, weighing it down with a plate so it cannot float, and cover the container. Leave it soaking for anywhere from 6 to 24 hours. The longer it sits, the better your fruiting set, so be patient if you can.

6 to 24 hours submerged. Do not open the box before full colonisation.

Add perlite (Enhanced version only)

Skip this step if you did not buy the Enhanced kit. Otherwise, rinse the 1.5L of perlite in a strainer until soaking wet, let it stop dripping, then tip it into the base of the XL Grow Tent. Cover your nose and mouth while you handle it, the dust is unpleasant. Lay a piece of tin foil slightly larger than the cake on top of the perlite so the cake never sits directly on the wet perlite.

Enhanced kit only. Rinse, drain, foil barrier on top.

Set up the tent

Take the dunked cake out of the water, rinse it under the tap and let the excess drain off. Place it into the XL Grow Tent (on the foil if using perlite). Fold the top of the tent over to hold humidity in and dust out, taping it shut if it will not stay closed.

Drain well before it goes in. Standing water invites contamination.

Fruit and harvest

Hold the room around 20C to 22C, a little cooler than colonisation. For fresh air exchange, cut a 1cm slit through each side near the top and run a fan on low somewhere in the room. Give the cake indirect daylight or a 6000 to 7000K light a couple of feet away. On the regular kit, give the inside of the tent a light mist whenever it starts to look dry. The Enhanced kit's perlite usually holds enough humidity that you can mist far less, or not at all.

~20 to 22C. Light mist if it looks dry (regular kit). Pins in 3 to 7 days, mature 4 to 5 days later. Harvest as the veil under a cap starts to tear.

Dunk again for the next flush

After you have picked everything from the first flush, dunk the cake again exactly as before to rehydrate it, then rinse, drain and return it to the tent for round two. If you used perlite, rinse and rehydrate that at the same time. Dunking between every flush is what keeps the later rounds worthwhile (see the universal basics on dunking between flushes).

Repeat after each flush. Each flush is a little smaller than the last.

Misting depends on which version you bought.

The regular MycDrop has no perlite, so give it a light mist whenever the tent looks dry. The Enhanced version's 1.5L of perlite holds the humidity for you, so it usually needs little or no misting. Either way, only open the tent when you have to, since every peek lets humidity out and can cause aborted pins and split caps.

At a glance

Method family: Single-stage substrate box, inject and fruit, no grain step
Vessel: 750mL HEPA-filtered Inject-thru MycoBox, fruited in an XL Grow Tent
Substrate: Sterile mix of whole wheat grain, coir, gypsum, lime, vermiculite and coffee
You inject: 2.5ml of your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe, 0.5ml per port
Colonisation: About 2 to 3 weeks at a steady 18 to 24C (aim ~24C)
Pre-fruit prep: Dunk the whole cake 6 to 24 hours, no casing needed
Fruiting: ~20 to 22C, light misting (regular kit), FAE from slits plus a low fan
Time to first harvest: Roughly 4 to 6 weeks from inoculation
Flushes: Several, dunk between each

This kit's quirks

No grain, no mixing

Everything is in one pre-packed box. There is no spawn to colonise first and nothing to break up or stir, which is why it is the most forgiving kit to start on.

0.5ml per port, 2.5ml total

Newer kits ship with a single port to cut the risk of cross-contamination, older ones have several. Put 0.5ml into each port you use and keep the total at or below 2.5ml either way.

Side and bottom fruits are fine

Mushrooms appearing around the edges and underside of the cake are normal and fully harvestable. For more room next time, a dedicated fruiting chamber helps.

Enhanced saves you misting

The 1.5L of perlite in the Enhanced version buys you extra humidity headroom and means little or no misting. The regular kit fruits perfectly well too, it just wants the occasional light mist when it looks dry.

↑ Choose a different kit

Grow guide

Special MycoPots

Difficulty Beginner Time to harvest About 4 to 6 weeks View the Special MycoPots →

The Special MycoPots kit is one of the simplest ways in. You get two small pre-filled pots, you inject your own gourmet culture straight through their sealed ports, and the same pots colonise and fruit with no grain-to-bulk step in between. It is forgiving in a cool home, and because there are two separate pots you can run two different species at once.

What is in your kit

The grow vessels and substrate

2 x 280mL HEPA-filtered Inject-thru MycoPots (D9cm x H6cm), each with a grey rubber injection port and a white air-filter strip on the lid
Sterile substrate already packed into both pots (organic rye grain, coffee, coir, lime and gypsum)

Fruiting and clean-work bits

Regular version: 2 x small HEPA-filtered grow tents (L19cm x H32cm), one per pot
Enhanced version: 1 x XL HEPA-filtered grow tent (L32cm x H49cm) plus 1.5L of perlite, both cakes share the one tent
Alcohol wipes, 18G 40mm needles, hand wipes, a face mask, and a pair of sterile gloves (optional but advised)
A link to these online instructions

You add this yourself (not included)

Your own gourmet spore or liquid culture syringe, with enough solution for both pots

Regular versus Enhanced, the one real difference

The Enhanced version swaps the two little tents for one big tent and adds perlite, which holds extra humidity in the tent. The Regular version has no perlite and uses the two small tents instead. Most of the humidity in either version comes from the water soaked into the cakes when you dunk them, so you mainly just keep the tents shut. If you have the Enhanced kit, do the perlite step below. If you have the Regular kit, skip the perlite step and use the two small tents.

Step by step

Get clean and set up

Work in a small, draught-free room. Shower, put on fresh clothes, then clean your hands and forearms and fit the mask and gloves. A Still-Air Box is the single best thing you can add here (see the universal basics on sterile work). If you have a SporeKit, test your syringe for clean growth first as the universal basics describe. Wipe down your surface and screw a fresh needle onto your syringe.

Allow 10 minutes to set up properly

Open the bag and expose the pots

Wipe the outside of the sealed bag with an alcohol wipe, then slide the two MycoPots out and dispose of the bag. Clean each grey rubber port on the lid with a fresh wipe. Do not touch or try to remove the white air-filter strips on the lids, they let the pots breathe and stay clean, and they are essential.

Move steadily, no fan or open window

Inject your culture through the ports

Fit a fresh needle to your gourmet syringe. Push the needle through the grey port on the first pot and inject your culture, then do the same on the second pot, sharing the solution evenly between them (roughly 0.5ml to 2ml into each, depending on how much your syringe holds). The Inject-thru port reseals itself as you withdraw the needle, so the pot never has to be opened. If you have solution left over, flame the needle until it glows red, let it cool a few seconds, recap it and store the syringe somewhere cool and dark.

Split your syringe evenly between the two pots

Colonise

Leave the pots somewhere warm and steady and do not open them. Aim for about 24C, though anywhere from 18C to 24C is fine as long as it stays steady. Never use a heat mat, and keep an eye out for condensation. Being two small pots, this kit colonises reasonably quickly and copes well with a cooler room, though a cool room will run a little slower. Wait until each pot is solid white all the way through before moving on.

Aim ~24C steady. About 2 to 3 weeks, a little longer in a cool room

Dunk the colonised cakes

Once a pot is fully white it has become a solid block, the cake. Take the lids off, pop both cakes out and submerge them in cold water, weighing them down with a plate so they stay under, and cover the container. This soaks water into the cakes, which is what supplies the humidity later. See the universal basics for why dunking matters between every cycle.

Submerge 6 to 24 hours, longer is better

Prepare the perlite (Enhanced version only)

Rinse the perlite in a strainer under the tap until soaked, let it stop dripping, then tip it into the bottom of the XL tent. Cover your nose and mouth, dry perlite dust is unpleasant. Cut a piece of foil slightly bigger than your cakes and lay it on the perlite so the cakes never sit directly on the wet perlite. Regular-version growers skip this step entirely.

Enhanced kit only, Regular kit skip to step 7

Place the cakes and close up

After dunking, rinse each cake under the tap and let excess water drain off. Set them into the tent or tents (one cake per small tent on the Regular kit, both cakes on the foil in the XL tent on the Enhanced kit). Fold the tent tops over to hold humidity in, taping if needed.

Drain well before placing, no standing water

Fruit

Keep the tent a little cooler than colonisation, around 20C to 22C. The humidity builds inside the tent from the water soaked into the cakes, so you mostly just keep it shut. On the Regular version, if the tent ever looks dry inside, a light misting helps; on the Enhanced version the perlite handles that for you. For fresh air, light and pinning, follow the universal fruiting basics (a small slit each side plus a low room fan, indirect daylight or a 6500K to 7000K light a few feet away).

Fruiting ~20 to 22C. Pins in about 3 to 7 days, then 4 to 5 days to mature

Harvest and go again

Harvest each cluster just as the veil under the caps begins to tear, before spores drop and before the caps fully open. Cut them off with a clean blade, or gently pull them, without tearing the cake. Mushrooms growing round the sides and bottom are normal and still worth picking. After a flush, dunk the cakes again (and re-rinse the perlite if you have it) and put them back to fruit. With good care expect several flushes, the first being the biggest.

Dunk between every flush, see the universal basics

At a glance

Family: Single-stage inject-and-grow box
Vessels: 2 x 280mL Inject-thru MycoPots (one species each, if you like)
Substrate: Rye grain, coffee, coir, lime, gypsum (pre-filled, sterile)
You supply: Your own gourmet spore or liquid culture syringe
Inoculation: Inject through the rubber ports, split evenly between the two pots
Colonisation: ~24C (18 to 24C fine if steady). About 2 to 3 weeks, a little longer in a cool room
Fruiting: ~20 to 22C in the supplied tent(s)
Pre-fruit step: Dunk the colonised cakes, plus dunk between every flush
Yield: A modest crop across several flushes, enough for yourself or to share with a couple of friends
Difficulty: Beginner, forgiving in a cool home

Quirks worth knowing

Two pots, two chances

Because the pots are separate, you can inoculate each with a different species, or just treat the second as a backup if the first picks up contamination. One bad pot does not ruin the kit.

Quick and simple, not maximum yield

Two small pots get you to harvest fast with very little fuss. The trade-off is a smaller total crop than a big bulk kit, which is the point of this one, easy and quick over maximum yield.

Humidity comes from the dunk

The water the cakes soak up during dunking is what keeps the tent humid, so the main job during fruiting is to keep the tent shut. The Enhanced perlite just adds a buffer of extra humidity.

Never open during fruiting

Apart from the moment you harvest, keep the tent shut. Even a few seconds open can drop the humidity enough to abort pins or crack caps.

↑ Choose a different kit

Grow guide

PF-Tek MycoPots

Difficulty Beginner Time to harvest About 4 to 6 weeks View the PF-Tek MycoPots →

This kit brings the original cake method to a tidy, ready to inject format. PF-Tek is the brown-rice-flour and vermiculite cake that more first-timers have learned on than any other, and here it comes pressed into three vented pots (MycoPots), sterilised and ready for you to inoculate. This recipe adds gypsum and coffee to the classic mix for a little extra nutrition. There is no grain to expand and no bulk substrate to mix. Each pot is its own sealed chamber from inoculation through colonisation, then the colonised cakes come out to fruit together in one grow tent.

What is in your kit

In the box

3 x MycoPots, each filled with 280ml of sterilised brown rice flour and vermiculite (with added gypsum and coffee), HEPA filtered and injectable
A self-healing injection port in every pot lid
1 x XL grow tent with filtered air exchange
1.5 litres of perlite for the tent floor
250ml of vermiculite for the dunk and roll
3 x sterile needles
3 x chlorhexidine alcohol wipes, 2 anti-microbial hand wipes and a face mask
Illustrated step-by-step instructions

You supply

Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (not included). You need about 6ml in total, 1ml per pot, so a standard syringe covers all three.
Clean cool water for dunking
A warm, dark spot for colonisation and a brighter spot for fruiting
A small electric fan, plus a little tin foil and tape (see the steps)

Why cakes are the friendly format

The pot you inoculate is the pot the cake colonises in, so there is no transfer step where things can go wrong, and you can watch the white mycelium spread through the pot wall. If you are new to this, cakes are about the most forgiving place to start, and three of them means three independent chances to get it right.

Step by step

Inoculate each pot

Work in still, clean air (see the universal basics for sterile technique). Fit a fresh sterile needle to your syringe. Wipe the injection port on each lid with an alcohol wipe and let it dry. Do not touch or peel off the white air filter strip on the lid, it needs to stay. Inject 1ml of culture through the port of each pot, then move on to the next. Sterilise the needle between pots.

1ml per pot, about 6ml across the three. Inoculate them all in one sitting and leave the lids on.

Colonise warm and dark

Leave the cakes sealed in their pots with the lids on. Set them somewhere warm and out of direct sun. White mycelium will spread out from the injection point and gradually take over the whole cake. Do not open a pot until the cake is solid white throughout.

Aim for around 24C, anywhere from 18C to 24C is fine if it stays steady. Never use a heat mat, it causes condensation. Usually 1 to 3 weeks.

Dunk and roll the cakes

Once a cake is fully colonised (completely white), pop it out of its pot. It comes out as a solid block. Submerge the cakes in clean cool water, weighting them down so they stay fully under, and leave them anywhere from 6 to 24 hours (longer gives better results). Then lift each one out, rinse it, let it drain, and roll it in the supplied vermiculite until the whole surface is coated. Keep some vermiculite back, you roll again between flushes.

6 to 24 hours submerged. Do not skip the vermiculite roll, it protects the cake surface.

Set up the grow tent

Rinse the perlite until it is soaking wet, let it stop dripping, and spread it over the floor of the XL grow tent. Lay a piece of tin foil slightly larger than a cake on top of the perlite so the cakes never sit directly on the wet perlite, then place the cakes on the foil with space between them. Fold the top of the tent over to hold humidity in, taping it shut if it will not stay closed.

Cakes must not touch the damp perlite, that is what the foil is for.

Fruit them

This kit holds its own humidity from the water in the cakes and perlite, so do not mist it and do not open the tent until you are ready to harvest, even a few seconds of opening loses humidity. For fresh air, cut a 1cm slit through both sides of the tent near the top and run a small fan in the room on low. Give the cakes indirect daylight or a 6000K to 7000K LED a foot or two away. See the universal basics for the why behind fruiting, fresh air and humidity.

A little cooler now, around 20C to 22C. Pins usually appear in 3 to 7 days, then 4 to 5 days to mature.

Harvest and reflush

Harvest each mushroom just as the veil under its cap is about to tear, cutting or gently twisting it free. Once a flush is done, dunk that cake again in cool water and rinse it before it goes back in the tent, and re-wet the perlite at the same time. With good care you should get two or three flushes from each cake before the nutrients run out.

Dunk the cakes and re-wet the perlite before every flush. Yield tapers off with each one.

At a glance

Format: 3 MycoPots, each a 280ml PF-Tek cake (rice flour, vermiculite, gypsum and coffee) in a vented pot
Inoculation route: Inject through the self-healing port in each pot lid, 1ml per pot
Inoculant needed: Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (not included), about 6ml total for the three
Colonisation: Around 24C (18 to 24C steady), 1 to 3 weeks, sealed in the pots
Fruiting: Cakes dunked, rolled in vermiculite, then onto a foil-topped perlite bed in the XL tent, 20 to 22C, no misting
Yield: About 250g to 300g of fresh mushrooms over two or three flushes
Difficulty: Beginner, the most forgiving format to learn on

No transfer step

The pot is the jar and the cake in one. No grain to expand and no bulk to mix, so the cake stays sealed in its pot all the way through colonisation.

Fully visual

You watch colonisation progress through the pot wall, which makes it easy to learn what healthy white mycelium should look like.

No misting

This tent keeps its own humidity from the dunked cakes and wet perlite, so you leave it closed until harvest rather than misting and opening it.

↑ Choose a different kit

Grow guide

PF-Tek MycDrop

Difficulty Beginner Time to harvest About 5 to 7 weeks View the PF-Tek MycDrop →

The PF-Tek MycDrop is the smaller, faster sibling of the PF-Tek MycoBox. You inject your own gourmet culture into a sterile brown-rice cake inside a 750mL MycoBox, let it colonise, give it a soak to rehydrate, then fruit it in the supplied tent. The compact volume colonises quickly and copes well with a cooler home, which makes it a friendly first cake to learn the whole cycle on.

What is in your kit

In the box

1 x 750mL HEPA-filtered Inject-thru MycoBox (L18 x W12 x H5 cm) holding the sterile cake
Sterile organic brown-rice-flour substrate, enhanced with coffee, vermiculite and gypsum
1 x XL HEPA-filtered grow tent (L32 x H49 cm)
1.5L perlite for tent humidity
Alcohol wipes, hand wipes and a face mask
Sterile gloves (optional on the No Gloves variant, otherwise included)
A vermiculite casing layer already sitting on top of the cake

You supply

A 2.5ml gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (not included)
A fresh sterile needle
A clean container deep enough to fully submerge the cake, for dunking
A low room fan and an indirect light source for fruiting
A Still-Air Box is strongly recommended for the inoculation step

This kit ships sterile and uninoculated for legal gourmet species. See the Universal basics above for sterile technique, what contamination looks like, and the mycelium-versus-microbes principle everything below rests on.

A note on the injection ports

Current kits ship with a single injection port rather than the five shown in older photos. One port means fewer pathways for microbes, at the cost of a few extra days colonising. If your lid has one port, put all 2.5ml in it. If it has the older five ports, split the dose at 0.5ml per port.

Step by step

Inoculate the cake

Work in a clean, draught-free space, ideally inside a Still-Air Box. Shower, fresh clothes, mask and gloves on, hands and forearms wiped. Fit a new sterile needle to your syringe. Wipe the bag with the alcohol wipe, slide the MycoBox out, and wipe the grey rubber port (or ports). Do not touch or remove the white HEPA filter. Inject 2.5ml total of your gourmet culture or spore solution: all of it into the single port, or 0.5ml per port if yours has five.

A few minutes. Do not exceed 2.5ml in total.

Colonise

Bin the bag and leave the box somewhere clean, dark and still. Aim for about 24C, and anywhere from 18C to 24C is fine as long as it stays steady. Do not use a heat mat (uneven heat plus condensation invites contamination), and watch for water building up on the lid. Resist opening it. White mycelium spreads out from the injection point through the cake. This compact cake colonises roughly twice as fast as the larger MycoBox.

About 2 to 3 weeks if warm and steady, nearer 4 to 5 weeks at cooler room temperature. Spores run slower than live culture.

Prep the perlite

Tip the 1.5L of perlite into a strainer and rinse under the tap until soaking wet, then let it stop dripping. Pour it into the bottom of the XL grow tent. Cover your nose and mouth while you handle it, dry perlite is dusty. The damp perlite is what keeps the tent air humid.

Do this once the cake is white all the way through, just before fruiting.

Dunk and roll

Once colonised, lift the solid cake out of the box and submerge it fully in clean cool water, weighing it down with a plate so it stays under. Cover the container to keep it clean. Soak it for anywhere between 6 and 24 hours to rehydrate the cake for fruiting. After the dunk, rinse it, let the excess drain, then settle it back into the MycoBox with its vermiculite casing layer on top, the way it started.

6 to 24 hours submerged. Longer soaks tend to give better results.

Set up for fruiting

Stand the MycoBox on the damp perlite inside the tent and fold the top over to hold humidity in and dust out (a little tape helps if it will not stay shut). Cut a 1cm slit through each side near the top for fresh air exchange, and run a low room fan nearby. Give it indirect daylight or a 6000 to 7000K LED a couple of feet away. Aim for a fruiting temperature a touch cooler than colonisation, around 20 to 22C.

Humidity rises on its own from the rehydrated cake. See Universal basics for FAE and light theory.

Pin, grow and harvest

After roughly 3 to 7 days you will see tiny white dots (hyphal knots) that become pins, then about 4 to 5 days more to mature mushrooms. Only open the tent to harvest, opening it early costs humidity and can abort pins. Do not start misting until at least 24 hours after the dunk, and only mist if the cake looks visibly dry, dabbing away any pooled water with tissue. Harvest each mushroom just as the veil under its cap starts to tear, cutting with a clean scalpel before the spores drop. Mushrooms around the sides and base of the cake are fine to pick too.

Pins in 3 to 7 days, mature 4 to 5 days after that.

Dunk again for the next flush

After clearing a flush, dunk the cake again to rehydrate it, rinse, drain and return it to the tent. Re-wet the perlite at the same time, it dries out quickly. With good care this medium-sized cake gives several flushes, the first being the biggest, until the nutrients are spent.

Repeat between every flush. See Universal basics for dunking theory.

The vermiculite casing is not contamination.

The dry vermiculite layer on top can stay pale and uncoloured even when the cake below is fully white. Judge colonisation by the brown rice cake itself, not the casing. That layer is doing its job: it holds surface moisture and encourages even pinning.

At a glance

Method family: PF-Tek cake (inject, colonise, dunk and roll, fruit)
Vessel: 750mL HEPA-filtered Inject-thru MycoBox
Substrate: Organic brown-rice-flour cake (with coffee, vermiculite, gypsum)
You add: 2.5ml gourmet culture or spore syringe (not included)
Colonisation temp: About 24C, 18 to 24C if kept steady, no heat mat
Fruiting temp: Around 20 to 22C
Colonisation time: About 2 to 3 weeks warm, 4 to 5 weeks cool
Time to first harvest: Roughly 5 to 7 weeks from inoculation
Yield: Medium, several flushes, dunk between each
Difficulty: Beginner

Stick to 2.5ml

More inoculant does not mean faster growth, it just adds risk. 2.5ml total (all in the single port, or 0.5ml per port on the five-port version) is the right dose.

Good for a cooler home

This kit handles lower temperatures well, so it is a sensible pick if you cannot reliably hit 24C. Just keep whatever you can manage steady.

Patience between stages

Do not fruit until the cake is white all the way through, and do not mist within the first 24 hours after a dunk or you will waterlog it.

↑ Choose a different kit

Grow guide

PF-Tek InocuBox

Difficulty Beginner Time to harvest About 5 to 9 weeks View the PF-Tek InocuBox →

The InocuBox is a classic PF-Tek cake and one of the most forgiving kits to start with. It is a sealed 1600mL box holding about 1.2L of pre-sterilised brown-rice substrate, with a single self-healing injection port and a HEPA air filter built into the lid. You inject your own gourmet culture through the one port, let the whole cake colonise inside the sealed box, then fruit it in the supplied tent. One vessel, one inoculation, no grain stage and no mixing, which is what makes it such an easy first kit.

In the box

1 x PF-Tek InocuBox (1600mL) with self-healing injection port and HEPA filter, holding about 1.2L sterile substrate (organic brown rice flour, vermiculite, gypsum)
1 x grow tent for fruiting
1 x bag of perlite for tent humidity
1 x alcohol wipe
1 x pair of gloves
1 x face mask

You add yourself

A gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe, 3 to 6ml (not included)
A fresh sterile needle
A clean container deep enough to dunk the cake, plus a plate to weigh it under
A small piece of tin foil and a little tape
A clean scalpel or knife for harvest

This kit ships sterile and uninoculated. The living part is the gourmet culture you bring to it. Everything below is what is specific to the InocuBox. For the why behind sterile technique, contamination, fresh air and dunking, see the universal basics above.

Step by step

Inject through the single port

Work clean (shower, fresh clothes, the included mask and gloves, surfaces wiped, ideally inside a Still-Air Box). Slide the InocuBox out of its bag, wipe the grey rubber port with the alcohol wipe, fit a fresh sterile needle, and inject 3 to 6ml of your gourmet culture or spore solution through the one port. Do not add more than 6ml in total. Angle the needle and spread the solution around inside rather than into one spot. Do not touch or remove the white filter strips, ever.

A few minutes, work sterile, 3 to 6ml maximum

Colonise the whole cake

Give the box a gentle shake to spread the culture, then put it back in its loose bag (do not squeeze the air out) and zip it shut to keep it clean. Once or twice a week, open the bag for a moment to let fresh air in, then reseal. Otherwise leave it completely alone and let the white mycelium spread through. Yellowish liquid is normal metabolites, not contamination.

Roughly 5 to 8 weeks at room temperature. Aim ~24C, anywhere 18-24C steady is fine, watch for condensation, never a heat mat

Dunk the colonised cake

Only once the cake is fully white through. Never take the lid off before that. Lift the cake out (it comes away as one solid block), submerge it in clean room-temperature water, and weigh it down with a plate so it stays fully under. Cover the container and leave it 6 to 24 hours. Longer rehydrates it better, so lean towards the longer end if you can.

6 to 24 hours, longer is better

Prepare the tent and perlite

Rinse the perlite in a strainer until it is soaked, let it stop dripping, then spread it across the floor of the grow tent. Wear the mask while handling dry perlite, it is dusty. Lay a piece of tin foil slightly larger than the cake on top of the perlite so the cake never sits directly on the wet perlite and waterlogs its base.

10 minutes, mask on for dry perlite

Set the cake to fruit

Rinse the dunked cake, let it drain, and set it on the foil in the centre of the tent. Fold the tent top over to hold humidity in (a little tape helps if it will not stay). For air exchange, cut a 1cm slit each side near the top and run a room fan on low nearby. Give it indirect daylight or a 6 to 7000K LED a few feet away, far enough that it does not heat or dry the cake. Do not mist this kit unless it actually looks dry, the humidity comes from the cake itself.

Fruiting ~20-22C, a little cooler than colonising

Pin, grow and harvest

Tiny white dots (hyphal knots) appear in about 3 to 7 days, become pins, then take a further 4 to 5 days to mature. Keep the tent shut the whole time, even a few seconds of peeking can drop humidity and cause aborts. Harvest each mushroom just as the veil under its cap starts to tear, with a clean scalpel, before the spores drop and make a mess. Mushrooms growing round the sides and base are fine to take too.

Pins in 3 to 7 days, mature in another 4 to 5

Dunk again for the next flush

After clearing a flush, dunk the cake again to rehydrate it, rinse and drain it, and rehydrate the perlite at the same time. Repeat for as many flushes as the cake will give. Each flush is usually smaller than the last, with the first being the biggest.

Several flushes per cake, dunk between each

InocuBox quirks worth knowing

One port, work clean

There is a single self-healing port. Wipe it, use a fresh needle, and do all your injecting in one careful go. The fewer times you handle it, the lower the contamination risk.

Never touch the filter

The lid filter strips let the cake breathe while keeping contaminants out. Touching or peeling them is the fastest way to ruin a box.

Foil barrier matters

The cake must never sit on wet perlite. The foil square keeps the two apart so the base does not stay waterlogged and rot.

Lid stays on until white

Do not open the box to peek. Judge colonisation through the box, and only lift the cake out once it is fully white and ready to dunk.

Why it forgives beginners

Everything happens in one sealed vessel, so there is no grain stage to colonise, nothing to mix, and only a single port to keep clean. You inject once, leave it alone while it colonises, dunk it, and fruit it in the tent. That short, contained workflow is exactly why the InocuBox is a sensible first cake. Take your time over the sterile injection and the rest is mostly patience.

Family: PF-Tek cake (brown rice flour, vermiculite, gypsum)
Vessel: 1600mL InocuBox holding about 1.2L substrate, single port, HEPA filter
Inoculation: Inject 3 to 6ml of gourmet culture through the lid port (6ml maximum)
You supply: A gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe, 3 to 6ml
Colonisation: About 5 to 8 weeks for a first-timer. Aim ~24C (18-24C steady), never a heat mat
Pre-fruit step: Dunk the colonised cake in clean water for 6 to 24 hours
Fruiting: In the grow tent on rinsed perlite, ~20-22C
First mushrooms: Roughly 5 to 9 weeks from inoculation
Flushes: Several, dunking between each
Difficulty: Beginner friendly, a classic first kit

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Grow guide

PF-Tek MycoPot Grow Kit (DIY)

Difficulty Hands-on (beginner with patience) Time to harvest About 3 to 6 weeks View the PF-Tek MycoPot Grow Kit (DIY) →

This is the most hands-on kit we sell, and that is the whole point. PF-Tek (the Psilocybe Fanaticus Technique) is the classic brown-rice-flour cake method, and the DIY version gives you the parts to mix, fill and sterilise the cakes yourself rather than receiving them ready-made. All you add from the kitchen is a pan and water. Follow the booklet and you finish with eight cakes you built by hand, a real feel for every stage, and the option to take your own spore prints from the harvest so you can run it all again.

What is in your kit

In the box

8 x 280ml MycoPots (Inject-thru lids optional)
Pre-measured PF-Tek substrate mix (brown rice flour, vermiculite and gypsum)
6L perlite, for the fruiting humidity layer
2L vermiculite, for casing and rolling the cakes
4 x XL grow tents (optional, for fruiting)
Hygiene kit (gloves, mask, hand wipes)
8 x alcohol wipes
8 x sterile needles
1 x SporeKit, for testing your solution and cakes for contamination
Printed instructions

You provide yourself

Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (16ml of solution across the batch, not included)
A large pan with a lid, for steam sterilisation
Tap water for mixing
A clean working area

The difference from our pre-filled PF-Tek MycoPots is simple. There, the cakes arrive made and sterilised and you just inject. Here you do the mixing and sterilising too, which is why this teaches the method end to end. The pots are reusable, so once a batch is finished you wash, refill and run them again. That, plus steam-sterilising in an ordinary kitchen pot rather than a pressure cooker, keeps the running cost very low.

How it works, start to finish

Because you build the cakes from scratch, this has more steps than our ready-made kits. None of them are hard, they just need doing in order and with clean hands. For the underlying ideas (why we work clean, what healthy mycelium looks like, how fruiting is triggered), see the Universal basics above. The steps below are specific to these cakes.

Mix the substrate

Combine the pre-measured PF-Tek mix (brown rice flour, vermiculite and gypsum) per the booklet, then add tap water a little at a time until it is just damp enough to clump but not wet. The vermiculite holds moisture and keeps the cake airy, and the gypsum helps the structure. Go easy on the water. A soggy cake is the single most common first-batch mistake.

Allow 30 to 45 minutes for prep

Fill the MycoPots

Spoon the mix loosely into each of the 8 pots, do not pack it down, the mycelium needs the air gaps to spread. Leave headroom at the top so the needle can move around inside, then finish with a thin dry layer of plain vermiculite if your guide calls for it. Wipe each rim clean and fit the lid.

Loosely filled, headroom left at the top

Steam sterilise in a pan

Stand the filled pots in a large pan with the water coming partway up the sides (not over the lids), put the pan lid on, and keep it at a steady simmer for the time given in the booklet (around 90 minutes is typical for cakes this size). This sterilising step is the heart of PF-Tek, and the why of it is covered in Universal basics. Top the pan up with hot water if it runs low.

Steady simmer, around 90 minutes

Cool fully

Lift the pots out and let them cool to room temperature completely before you go near them with a syringe. Inoculating a warm cake will kill the culture you just paid for. Cooling can take a few hours, so leaving them overnight in a clean spot is the easy option.

Several hours, ideally overnight

Inoculate through the port

Wipe each injection port with an alcohol wipe, fit a fresh sterile needle to your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe, then inject a small amount into each cake, angling so it runs down the inside wall of the pot. Roughly 2ml per pot uses the 16ml of solution evenly across all eight. The Inject-thru port reseals when you withdraw the needle. Work one pot at a time and keep the lids on. There is nothing to flame or pressure-cook, the cake is already sterile inside.

About 2ml per pot, 16ml across the batch

Colonise warm and dark

Set the pots somewhere warm, steady and out of direct sun, lids on, and leave them alone. White mycelium appears at the injection points within a week or so and slowly spreads until each cake is fully white and firm. Resist the urge to keep opening them. Watch for condensation inside, and for any colour that is not white (Universal basics covers what to look for, and you can use the included SporeKit to test if you are unsure).

Aim for around 24C, anywhere 18 to 24C if steady. 2 to 4 weeks. Never use a heat mat.

Birth, dunk and roll, then fruit

Once a cake is fully white through, pop it out of its pot (this is called birthing). Give the birthed cake a dunk in cool water and roll it in the supplied vermiculite to set up a moist skin (the classic PF-Tek dunk and roll). Rinse the perlite and spread a damp layer in the base of a grow tent for humidity, then stand the cakes on top (sit each on a small piece of foil so it never rests directly on the wet perlite). Now switch to fruiting conditions: fresh air, indirect light and the humidity rising from the perlite (the general theory is in Universal basics). Pins appear within days and grow into mushrooms ready to pick.

A little cooler now, around 20 to 22C. Fruiting roughly 1 to 2 weeks per flush.

Cool before you inoculate, always.

The one step people rush is cooling. A cake that still feels even slightly warm in the middle will cook the culture the moment you inject it, and you will not find out until weeks of nothing have passed. When in doubt, give it more time. Overnight is foolproof.

From spore to spore, and yields

This kit is built to teach the full loop. Once your cakes fruit, you can take a spore print from a mature gourmet mushroom and use it to start your next round, so a single kit can keep going well beyond the first batch. A good cake gives 1 to 2 flushes, and the first flush is usually the biggest with later ones tailing off (see Universal basics on dunking between flushes to rehydrate a cake for another go). When the pots are finally spent, wash them out and they are ready to refill.

Learn the whole method

You do every stage by hand, mixing, sterilising, inoculating, fruiting and even taking your own prints, so you finish genuinely understanding cultivation.

Only a kitchen pot needed

No pressure cooker. Steam-sterilise in an ordinary lidded pan, and the eight MycoPots are reusable batch after batch.

Eight cakes per batch

A full set of eight 280ml cakes gives you room to experiment and plenty of fruiting surface across the grow tents.

At a glance

Method: Classic PF-Tek brown-rice-flour cakes, mixed and sterilised by you
Vessels: 8 x 280ml reusable MycoPots, Inject-thru lids optional
Substrate: Pre-measured brown rice flour, vermiculite and gypsum
You add: Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (16ml, not included), plus a pan and water
Inoculation: Inject through the port, about 2ml per pot using a fresh sterile needle
Sterilising: Steam in an ordinary lidded kitchen pot, around 90 minutes, no pressure cooker
Contamination check: SporeKit included, for testing your solution and cakes
Colonisation temp: Around 24C, anywhere 18 to 24C if steady. No heat mat.
Fruiting temp: A little cooler, around 20 to 22C, humidity from the perlite layer
Time: Colonisation 2 to 4 weeks, then fruiting 1 to 2 weeks per flush
Yield: 1 to 2 flushes per cake across 8 cakes, with spore prints to start the next round
Difficulty: Beginner-friendly with patience, our most hands-on kit
Grows: Gourmet mushrooms only

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Grow guide

MycMonster

Difficulty Beginner friendly Time to harvest About 3 to 5 weeks View the MycMonster →

The MycMonster is the simplest big kit we make. It is a 2L bag already filled with sterile Substrate B, and you do everything in that one bag: inject it, colonise it, and fruit it. There is no injection port, no separate grain tub, and no separate tent to set up. If you can peel a sticker you can inoculate this kit.

In the box

2L MycMonster bag prefilled with sterile Substrate B (our fastest substrate yet, a richer relative of the MycoBox Special blend)
Built-in HEPA filter patches on the bag that handle clean air exchange
2x isopropyl alcohol wipes
1x hand wipe
1x 18G sterile needle

You add (not included)

A gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe. You need 12ml for this kit, no more and no less, unless you have a very densely spore-filled smaller syringe.
Clean hands and a clean, draught-free spot to work. A Still-Air Box is a bonus but not required for this kit.

This is an all-in-one bag kit. There is no port, so you inject straight through the surface of the sterile bag and then seal the tiny hole with an alcohol wipe or a sticker. That same bag is where the mushrooms fruit, so you never open it until it is fully colonised. The universal basics above cover sterile technique and what contamination looks like, so the steps below stick to what is specific to the MycMonster.

Get clean and pick your spot

Wash your hands and wipe down the surface you are working on. Shake your syringe so the contents are evenly mixed, then fit the included 18G needle. Wipe a small patch on the front of the bag with one isopropyl wipe and let it dry. Do not remove or cover the white HEPA patches at any point.

5 minutes, calm and unhurried

Inject 12ml through the bag

Push the needle through the wiped patch of bag, angling it into the substrate, and inject the full 12ml. Spread it around as you go rather than dumping it all in one spot, so colonisation starts from several points at once. Withdraw the needle and immediately press a fresh alcohol wipe or sticker firmly over the entry hole to seal it. That seal is what keeps microbes out, so do not skip it.

12ml total, one entry point sealed straight after

Colonise in the bag

Put the bag somewhere steady and warm and leave it completely alone. White fluffy mycelium will spread out from your injection points and slowly take over the whole substrate. Thanks to Substrate B this is fast: full colonisation can happen in as little as 10 days, though 2 to 3 weeks is normal and depends on your syringe, genetics and temperature. Keep an eye on condensation inside the bag and refer to the universal basics if anything looks off.

Aim ~24C, anywhere steady from 18 to 24C is fine, watch condensation. Often 10 days, allow 2 to 3 weeks. Never use a heat mat

Wait for 100% white, then start fruiting

Do not cut the bag open until the substrate is white all the way through, top, sides and base. Opening early is the single most common way to ruin this kit. Once fully colonised, move it somewhere a little cooler with indirect daylight and open the top of the bag to give it fresh air. The humidity it needs comes from inside the substrate, so do not drown it in misting (see the universal fruiting and fresh-air notes above).

Only when 100% colonised. Fruiting ~20 to 22C

Pin, grow and harvest

Tiny white dots appear first, then baby mushrooms, then full fruits over a week or so. Harvest each mushroom just as the veil under the cap begins to tear, twisting or cutting cleanly at the base. Because this is a 2L block of substrate, expect a generous first flush.

Pins to harvest roughly 7 to 12 days

Go again for more flushes

After the first harvest the cake can fruit again. Rehydrate it between flushes (see the universal dunking notes above), dab off any standing water, and give it fresh air. Each flush tends to be smaller than the last, but the large MycMonster cake usually has plenty left to give.

Repeat until yields tail off

The two rules that matter most on this kit

One, never cut the bag open before it is fully colonised. Two, never put it on direct heat such as a heat mat, and keep an eye on condensation. The built-in HEPA patches do your air exchange while it colonises, so leave them alone and let the bag do the work.

At a glance

Method family: All-in-one bag (inject and fruit in the same bag)
Vessel: 2L MycMonster bag with built-in HEPA filter patches
Substrate: Sterile Substrate B, prefilled (our fastest blend)
Inoculant you add: 12ml gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (exactly 12ml)
Inoculation: Inject through the sterile bag, then seal the hole. No port
Colonisation: As little as 10 days, typically 2 to 3 weeks. Aim ~24C, 18 to 24C steady is fine
Fruiting: In the same bag, slightly cooler at ~20 to 22C
Yield: Large first flush from a 2L cake, plus further flushes
Use within: About 4 weeks of receiving, for best results

Why it is fast

Substrate B is built for rapid growth and big yields, which is how colonisation can reach the fruiting stage in around 10 days.

Why beginners like it

One bag, one injection, no port to fiddle with and no separate tent to assemble. Inject, seal, wait, open, fruit.

Get the volume right

12ml is the target. Too little and the big cake may colonise slowly or unevenly. A very dense smaller syringe can be the exception.

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Grow guide

Letterbox Monster

Difficulty Beginner Time to harvest About 4 to 6 weeks View the Letterbox Monster →

Best for: first-timers who want the simplest possible start, and anyone who needs a kit that drops straight through a standard UK letterbox while they are out, so it is not left with a neighbour.

The Letterbox Monster is an all-in-one bag. The substrate, the growing space and the fruiting chamber are all the same single bag, so you never transfer anything between vessels. You inject your own culture once, then colonise and fruit in place. It is sterilised flat with the substrate spread evenly inside a folded-over bag, so it posts like a thick envelope, then unfolds to nearly twice that length and holds 1000mL of substrate, as much as our XL MycoBox. A small package, a big harvest, and quick too (the copy rates it even faster to colonise than our MycMonster).

What is in your kit

In the box

One HEPA-filtered tall, narrow grow bag, folded flat and pre-loaded with 1000mL of sterilised Substrate A (ready to inject, no microwaving)
A sticker to seal the needle hole after you inject
Sanitation: an IPA (alcohol) wipe, a hand wipe, and an 18G sterile needle
Printed instructions, plus online instructions within 24 hours

You add

Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (not included, 12ml maximum)
A clean, draught-free spot at a steady room temperature

There is no separate spawn jar and no transfer step on this kit. One bag, one injection, no moment where contamination usually sneaks in. That is what makes the all-in-one design a strong first kit. (For sterile technique, what contamination looks like, and the mycelium-versus-microbes principle, see the Universal basics on this page.)

Before you start: keep the bag cool and dark until you are ready, and inoculate within about 4 weeks of delivery for the best results.

Step by step

Get clean and prep

Work clean, following the sterile-technique steps in the Universal basics. The kit-specific bits: have your syringe, the included 18G needle and the sealing sticker to hand before you do anything, because you inject the instant you peel the bag back (see step 2).

10 minutes, calm and unhurried

Peel back, inject, seal

Peel back the folded-over bag to extend it fully. This exposes a large, totally sterile surface, which is the cleanest possible moment to inject, so do it straight away. Push the needle in and inject your culture in a few spots across the bag rather than all in one place, using 6ml to 12ml in total (12ml is the maximum). Several small deposits give you several starting points, so the bag colonises faster and more evenly. Withdraw the needle, then cover the tiny needle hole with the included sticker. The IPA wipe is there if you want to clean a spot first, but if you peel back and inject immediately you barely need it.

A few minutes. 6ml to 12ml, 12ml max

Colonise in place

Let the substrate settle to the gusseted bottom, stand the bag upright and leave it somewhere dark, still and steady. Aim for about 24C if you can, but anywhere from 18C to 24C is fine as long as it stays steady. Do not use a heat mat, and keep an eye out for condensation inside the bag. Leave the HEPA filters alone, as they handle the air exchange. White mycelium will spread out from each injection point and gradually take over the whole substrate.

Roughly 1 to 2 weeks at a steady temperature

Wait for full colonisation

Move on only when the substrate is white all the way through, with no untouched patches. Never cut or open the bag before it is fully colonised, as that is the quickest way to let contamination in and ruin the kit. (If anything looks or smells off, check it against the contamination guidance in the Universal basics.) Patience here is what protects everything that follows.

Do not rush this stage

Open for fresh air and fruit

Once it is fully white, fruit it in the same bag, standing vertically. Open the top of the bag to let fresh air reach the colonised surface. Then follow the Universal basics for light, fresh air and humidity, and let the temperature settle a little cooler, around 20C to 22C.

Pins appear in roughly 3 to 7 days after opening

Harvest

Tiny white dots become pins, then full mushrooms over about 4 to 5 days. Harvest each one just as the veil under the cap begins to tear, before the spores drop, by cutting cleanly at the base. Then dab away any pooled water so nothing sits wet.

Whole cycle: about 4 to 6 weeks from injection

The one quirk of an all-in-one bag

On this kit the bag is also your fruiting chamber. During colonisation the HEPA filters do the air exchange for you (do not remove them). Once you open the top for fruiting, fresh air is governed by how the bag is opened, so if the fruiting surface looks unhappy, more air is usually the lever to pull. (The why, and the symptoms to watch for, are in the Universal basics.)

Getting more from it

After the first flush this kit can give you more. Rehydrate the bag using the dunking-between-flushes method in the Universal basics. Each flush is smaller than the one before, so the first is your biggest.

No transfer step

One bag does everything. Fewer steps means fewer chances for contamination to get in, which is why this is a strong first kit.

Posts flat, fruits big

It fits a standard UK letterbox (when ordered on its own with a syringe or two), yet it holds 1000mL of substrate, as much as the XL MycoBox.

Want a safety net?

A SporeKit (sold separately) lets you test your syringe for contamination before you commit it to the bag. Optional, not included.

Method family: All-in-one bag (inject and fruit in the same bag)
Grow container: HEPA-filtered tall, narrow bag, shipped folded flat
Substrate: 1000mL sterilised Substrate A, ready to inject (no microwaving)
Inoculation: Peel back the folded bag, inject the exposed sterile surface, then seal the hole with the included sticker. No injection port
You supply: Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe, 6ml to 12ml (12ml max)
Inoculate by: Within about 4 weeks of delivery for best results
Colonisation temp: Aim ~24C, 18C to 24C fine if steady. No heat mat
Fruiting temp: Slightly cooler, around 20C to 22C
Colonisation time: About 1 to 2 weeks at a steady temperature
Time to harvest: About 4 to 6 weeks from injection
Yield: As much substrate as the XL MycoBox, so a large harvest for its size
Flushes: Multiple, rehydrate by dunking between flushes
Difficulty: Beginner
Posts through a letterbox: Yes, ships flat (when ordered on its own with a syringe or two)

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Grow guide

Halloween Special

Difficulty Beginner Time to harvest About 4 to 6 weeks View the Halloween Special →

The Halloween Special is a simple all-in-one kit: a 1L tub already two-thirds filled with our sterile Cylocybe Special substrate, plus a small fruiting tent in the box. You inject your own gourmet culture straight into the tub, let it colonise fully, then pop the lid off and fruit it inside the tent. One vessel, one stage, no grain-to-bulk transfer and no shaking. It is a seasonal limited run, so the festive card is the only thing that changes. The kit inside grows exactly like our standard single-tub kits.

What is in your kit

In the box

1x 1L injectable tub, pre-filled two-thirds with sterile Cylocybe Special substrate, with built-in air-exchange filters and an injection point in the lid
1x fruiting tent to grow the mushrooms in once the lid comes off

Sanitation pack

2x isopropyl alcohol wipes
1x hand wipe
1x 18G sterile needle

You add

Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe, you need exactly 3ml. Sold separately, not included.

This is a single-stage kit, which is what makes it beginner-friendly. The substrate is already in its final vessel, so there is no separate grain step to colonise and no transfer to get wrong. The filters in the tub let the colony breathe while keeping airborne contaminants out, so leave them alone. You inject, wait, then fruit in the same tub inside the tent.

Step by step

Clean up and prep

Work in a still room on a wiped surface. Use the hand wipe to clean your hands, then wipe the injection point on the lid with one of the isopropyl wipes and let it dry for a few seconds. Fit the 18G needle to your loaded syringe before you start so the tub is exposed for as little time as possible.

A few minutes. See the universal sterile-technique basics on this page.

Inject 3ml

Push the needle through the cleaned injection point and inject exactly 3ml of your gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe into the substrate. If your culture lets you reach more than one spot, spreading the 3ml across a couple of points gives faster, more even colonisation. Withdraw the needle gently.

Day 0. Do not remove the air-exchange filters, ever.

Colonise warm and dark

Leave the closed tub somewhere warm, dark and undisturbed. White mycelium spreads out from the injection point and works its way through the whole substrate. Do not open the lid and try not to keep handling it. Liquid culture colonises faster than spores, which need to germinate first.

Aim for about 24C, anywhere steady between 18 and 24C is fine. Never put it on direct heat or a heat mat, and watch for condensation in the tub.

Wait for full colonisation

Only move on once the substrate is white all the way through, top, sides and bottom as far as you can see. Opening early is the main way a kit gets ruined, so patience here is the whole game. See the universal contamination basics on this page if you are unsure what you are looking at.

Typically a few weeks. White everywhere before you go further.

Pop the lid and fruit in the tent

Once fully colonised, take the lid off the tub and place the open tub inside the included fruiting tent. The tent holds humidity around the cake while letting in the fresh air that triggers pinning. Give it some indirect light. Mist lightly only if the surface looks dry, you want humid air, not standing water.

Fruiting runs a little cooler, around 20 to 22C. See the universal fruiting basics on this page.

Harvest

Tiny white pins appear first, then swell into mushrooms over several days. Harvest just before or as the caps open and the veil under the cap starts to tear, which is when they are at their best. After the first flush you can often coax another, see the universal dunking-between-flushes basics on this page.

Usually a few days from pinning to harvest.

Never open before it is fully white

The lid and the tub filters are what keep the colony protected while it establishes. Do not pop the lid until the substrate is white all the way through, then fruit. See the universal contamination basics on this page for why opening early is the risk.

At a glance

Format: Single-stage 1L injectable tub plus fruiting tent (seasonal limited run)
Substrate: Sterile Cylocybe Special, filling about two-thirds of the tub
Inoculation: Inject through the lid point, no transfer step
Dose: Exactly 3ml gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (not included)
Colonisation temp: About 24C (steady 18 to 24C fine), no heat mat or direct heat
Fruiting temp: Cooler, around 20 to 22C, in the included tent
Yield: A flush of mushrooms, often with more to come after a dunk
Difficulty: Beginner, a good single-vessel starter

Seasonal stock

A limited Halloween run with festive artwork. The kit inside is identical to our standard single-tub kit, so nothing about growing it changes.

Leave the filters alone

The patches on the tub handle clean air exchange. Removing them lets contaminants straight in, so never peel them off.

Inoculate within 4 weeks

For the best results, inject the kit within about four weeks of it arriving. Store it somewhere cool and out of direct sunlight until then.

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Grow guide

AgarPots Kit

Difficulty Intermediate Time to harvest No harvest. Clean growth across the dish in about 1 to 2 weeks View the AgarPots Kit →

AgarPots is not a grow kit, it is a lab tool, and it is a real step up in what you can do as a grower. Agar is a nutrient gel set in a dish: you put a tiny amount of your culture on it, and within days you can see clearly whether what you have is clean mycelium or something gone wrong. From there you cut a clean wedge and move it on, so you can test a syringe before you commit it to a real grow, clean up a culture that has a little contamination in it, or expand one good culture into many clean ones.

What is in your kit

In the bag

8 x AgarPots, pre-sterilised and packed in a breathable bag. 120mm across, so plenty of surface for the mycelium to spread on. Each has an Inject-thru lid (a self-healing port), so you can inoculate without ever taking the lid off.
3 x sterile scalpels for cutting agar wedges to transfer mycelium.
1 x face mask and 1 x pair of sterile gloves.
8 x chlorhexidine alcohol wipes for sanitising lids, tools and surfaces.
2 x anti-microbial handwipes for clean hands before you start.

The agar itself

Agar-agar sets the gel into a firm base.
Light malt extract feeds the mycelium.
Nutritional yeast adds vitamins and minerals.
Distilled water keeps it pure and consistent.

You add yourself

Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (not included). Spore swabs, prints or even foraged gourmet mushroom tissue work too.
A clean lighter or small torch flame for sterilising the scalpel between cuts.

The pots ship sterile and uninoculated. The sterile technique, the mycelium-versus-microbes race and the look of contamination are all covered in the universal basics section above, and they apply here. Agar is simply where that theory becomes visible, which makes it a good place to practise it.

Two ways to inoculate

There are two routes onto the agar, and the kit is built for both.

Inject through the lid. Wipe the Inject-thru port, push the needle through and lay a few small drops of liquid culture or spore solution onto the gel. The port reseals when you withdraw. This is the cleanest, simplest method and the reason the lids exist. Best for a first try.
Transfer a wedge. Once you have growth on one pot (or have a mushroom or print to start from), open a pot under cover, cut a small square of colonised agar with a flamed scalpel and lay it face down on a fresh pot. This is how you expand one good culture into many, and how you clean up a culture by repeatedly cutting from the leading edge, away from any contamination.

Step by step

Set up clean

Pick the stillest, cleanest spot you have. A Still-Air Box is ideal and makes agar work far easier. Shut windows, kill draughts, wipe the surface, wash hands then use a handwipe, put on the mask and gloves. Have your pots, scalpels, wipes and your syringe or culture within reach so you are not moving around mid-job.

Calm, still air. No fan, no open window.

Inoculate the gel

To inject, wipe the lid port with a chlorhexidine wipe, push the needle through, place a few small drops onto the agar surface, then withdraw. To transfer a wedge, flame the scalpel until it glows, let it cool for a few seconds, crack the lid just enough to work, cut a small square from a colonised pot and lay it on the fresh gel. Keep lids off for as little time as possible.

Seconds of open time. Flame the scalpel before and after every cut.

Bag up and incubate

Put the pots back in the breathable bag and leave them somewhere clean and steady. Lids up is fine. Aim for about 24C, though anywhere from 18C to 24C is fine as long as it is steady. Watch for condensation and never use a heat mat. Spores in particular do well towards the cooler end, which gives the mycelium time to outrun any stragglers.

About 24C, 18 to 24C all fine if steady. No heat mat.

Read the dish

This is the whole point of agar. Over a few days clean mycelium spreads as a fluffy white, even front. Anything off stands out at once against the clear gel, long before it could wreck a real grow. If you are unsure what you are looking at, the contamination guide in the universal basics section covers what each problem looks like.

First growth in 2 to 4 days. Clean coverage in about 1 to 2 weeks.

Clean it up or move it on

If a pot is clean, cut a wedge from the leading edge and transfer it to a fresh pot to build up the amount of clean culture you have. If a pot has a small contaminant, cut from the mycelium furthest from it onto a fresh pot, and repeat over a generation or two until the new pot grows clean. When you have a pot of strong, clean mycelium, you are ready to expand into spawn.

Repeat transfers until a pot grows fully clean.

Scale up into a grow

Agar gives you culture, not mushrooms, so the last step is to take a clean wedge across into a grain product to make spawn. Cut a wedge with a flamed scalpel and drop it into a sterile SpawnTub, which is the natural next stage for AgarPots. From there you follow the usual grain-to-bulk path to fruit.

Wedge into a sterile SpawnTub, then grow on as normal.

Why this beats injecting straight into a grow

No syringe is ever truly sterile, and a common way a grow fails is a syringe that was already carrying something. Agar lets you see what you have before you risk a whole tub on it. With a couple of clean transfers you can often walk a single pure strand of mycelium away from a contaminant and into a clean culture, even from a syringe that was not perfect to begin with. It is a worthwhile skill, and these pots are an easy place to learn it.

At a glance

Kit type: Lab tool for clean culture, not a substrate grow kit
Pots: 8 x AgarPots, 120mm diameter, Inject-thru lids
Agar recipe: Agar-agar, light malt extract, nutritional yeast, distilled water
You add: Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (prints, swabs, tissue also work)
Inoculation: Inject through the lid port, or transfer an agar wedge with a flamed scalpel
Incubation: About 24C (18 to 24C fine if steady), no heat mat
Time to clean growth: First mycelium in 2 to 4 days, clean coverage in about 1 to 2 weeks
Output: Clean, expandable culture to take across into a SpawnTub
Next stage: Wedge into a sterile SpawnTub, then grain-to-bulk to fruit

Flame between every cut

Heat the scalpel to glowing, then let it cool a few seconds so it does not cook the gel or your culture. Do this before and after every single cut. Most agar failures come from a tool that was not re-sterilised.

Lids off for seconds, not minutes

The longer a pot sits open, the more chance something drifts in. Inject through the port when you can. When you must open a pot, crack the lid only as far as the scalpel needs and close it straight after.

Store the spares cool

Pots you are not using yet keep best in a clean, cool, steady spot, still sealed in their breathable bag. Bring them up to room temperature before you work with them so they do not pull condensation.

Legal species only

Use AgarPots only for legal gourmet species, the same oysters, Lion's Mane, Shiitake and King Oyster you would grow in any of our kits.

Every kit goes through a full sterilisation process. If a pot looks wrong before you have used it, send us photos and we will diagnose it, and if it is a genuine fault we will replace the affected parts quickly.

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Grow guide

CyLab

Difficulty Hands-on, for the keen hobbyist Time to harvest Depends on what you grow in it View the CyLab →

The CyLab is not a single grow, it is the workshop you do your grows in. Three pieces nest into one compact system: a still-air box for clean work, a temperature-controlled incubator for colonising, and a heated fruiting chamber, so you can hold steady temperatures all year for pennies instead of heating a room. This guide sets it up. The method for any kit or spawn you run inside it lives in that kit's own section.

In the box

1x still-air box (SAB) with lid (box uncut, armholes cut into the lid)
1x insulated incubator with lid (pre-cut for air exchange, fits inside the water tank)
1x water tank, pre-cut for an air-exchange tunnel to the inner heated fruiting chamber
1x fruiting chamber with lid, pre-cut for air exchange and tall enough for big mushrooms
Water heater with a built-in thermostat (roughly 25 to 75W)
Approx 2.75m of premium aluminium bubble insulation, pre-cut to size
6500K LED fruiting light
12 litres of perlite
Polyfil for fresh air exchange

You add

A grow kit, or grain spawn plus a coir brick, to run inside it (the CyLab is the environment, not the substrate)
Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe for whatever you inoculate
Clean water for the tank, and tin foil to sit colonised cakes on in the fruiting chamber

Still-air box

A dead-air space for inoculating, opening kits, or taking spore prints. Still air lets contaminants settle out instead of swirling onto your work.

Heated incubator

Water tank plus heater plus inner insulated box, holding a steady colonisation temperature while mycelium runs through grain and substrate.

Heated fruiting chamber

The taller chamber, warmed by the same tank, where colonised cakes fruit. Run it as a classic perlite chamber or as a monotub.

First-time setup

Nest the parts

Everything stores inside everything else, so take it apart and lay it out. The incubator sits in the water tank, the fruiting chamber stacks on top. Keep the SAB separate as your clean-work station.

10 to 15 minutes

Set up the water tank and heater

Fill the tank, fit the heater, and set the thermostat so the inner chamber holds about 24C (anywhere 18 to 24C is fine if steady). Heated water gives gentle, even warmth from below, which is exactly why you never use a heat mat. Let it stabilise for a few hours before you trust the reading, and back the heat off if condensation beads up.

Stabilise for several hours. About 24C, never hotter

Wrap with the insulation

Wrap the pre-cut aluminium bubble insulation around the tank. This is what lets the 25 to 75W heater hold temperature for pennies. It is cut long enough to wrap the taller incubator-plus-fruiting-chamber stack too.

5 minutes

Do your clean work in the SAB

Open kits, inoculate, or take spore prints inside the still-air box with the armhole lid on. Let the air settle before you start. (See the universal basics for full sterile technique.) The box body is uncut so it stays sealed, all access is through the lid.

Use it for every sterile step

Colonise in the incubator

Put inoculated grain or substrate in the inner incubator and leave it alone at about 24C until fully colonised and white through. Timings depend on what you are running, so follow that kit's own section. The pre-cut vents and a little polyfil give air without drying it out. You do not need the light at this stage.

About 24C. Colonisation time depends on the kit

Fruit in the fruiting chamber

Rinse the 12 litres of perlite, spread it in the base for humidity, and sit the colonised cake on tin foil on top of it (never on wet perlite). Set the 6500K LED a little way back so it does not heat the chamber, on 12 hours on and 12 off. To reach 6500K, press the light's M switch until it shows Cool White Light. Pre-cut holes and polyfil handle the air. Ease the thermostat down for fruiting, around 20 to 22C. General fruiting and harvest theory is in the universal basics.

About 20 to 22C. Light 12 on, 12 off at 6500K

Never sit a cake straight on the perlite

Always put tin foil between a colonised cake and the perlite. Standing water against the cake invites contamination, and the foil keeps it out of the wet.

Running both at once

The CyLab's neatest trick is doing two stages together. Put the lid on the incubator and stand the fruiting chamber on top, so warmth rises from the same tank through both. Now one batch can colonise below while an earlier batch fruits above, with no gap between harvests. Wrap the full insulation around the taller stack to keep heat even.

Classic chamber or monotub

The breathing holes suit both. For a classic chamber, use the perlite as above. For a monotub, skip the perlite, fill with a bulk substrate such as coco coir, mix in your colonised grain, and fruit from that. The simple monotub recipe is 3x SpawnTubs plus a coir brick.

Kit type: Lab system (SAB plus heated incubator plus fruiting chamber), not a substrate grow
What you grow in it: Any grow kit, or grain spawn plus a coir brick, that you supply
Inoculant: Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (not included), done in the SAB
Colonisation temp: About 24C in the incubator (18 to 24C fine if steady), never hotter, no heat mat
Fruiting temp: Slightly cooler, about 20 to 22C
Heater draw: Roughly 25 to 75W, up to about 40 times less than a 2KW room heater
Light: 6500K LED (press M for Cool White Light), 12 on and 12 off, set back so it does not heat the chamber
Perlite supplied: 12 litres, for the classic fruiting chamber
Best for: Year-round gourmet grows, including winter, and improving your technique
Lead time: Please allow 7 working days, made to order

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Grow guide

SpawnTubs

Difficulty Intermediate Time to harvest About 2 to 3 weeks to fully colonised grain View the SpawnTubs →

A SpawnTub is not a finished grow on its own. It is a tub of fully prepared, sterilised rye grain that you bring to life and then use as the living engine for a larger bulk grow. Think of it as stage one of two: you colonise the grain here, then you mix that colonised grain through a bulk substrate to fruit. It is also the same grain spawn that sits inside our MonoBox kits, sold on its own so you can scale up your own way.

What is in your kit

In the box

400 to 450g (about a quart jar's worth) of sterilised organic rye grain with added gypsum, filled to around two thirds so there is room to shake
HEPA-filtered air exchange (the pink filter patch), so the grain breathes while staying sterile
Our self-healing rubber Inject-thru port in the lid, which reseals the moment the needle comes out
1 sterile needle
1 chlorhexidine alcohol wipe

You supply

Your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe (not included, by design), about 3 to 4ml
A lighter or flame to sterilise the needle, plus extra 70% isopropyl or wipes if you have them
For the second stage: a bulk substrate (such as a pasteurised coir and vermiculite mix) and a clean fruiting container or tent

The tub ships sterile and uninoculated. That is the whole point: the grain is a blank, contaminant-free canvas, and you choose exactly which gourmet culture goes into it. The mycelium-versus-microbes principle and what a clean start buys you are covered in the Universal basics section. Inoculate within about 4 weeks for best results, though a well-stored tub stays usable for many months.

How a SpawnTub works

The point of grain spawn is multiplication. A few millilitres of culture colonises the whole tub, and that colonised grain then becomes hundreds of inoculation points spread evenly through a much larger bulk substrate. Grain carries energy and moisture, so when you mix it in, the mycelium leaps across the bulk far faster than it ever would from a single injection. One SpawnTub can drive a bulk container several times its own volume. You can also use a colonised tub straight as a substrate to fruit from, or as a source for grain-to-grain transfers into more tubs.

Set up clean and inject

Work in a still, draught-free space, following the clean-technique routine in the Universal basics. Wipe the lid and the injection port with the chlorhexidine wipe and clean your hands. Flame-sterilise the needle until it glows, let it cool for a few seconds, then push it through the self-healing port and inject 3 to 4ml of your gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe. Do not pull off the pink filter, it is what keeps the air exchange clean.

3 to 4ml through the lid port. Wipe the port again after withdrawing the needle.

Shake to distribute

With the lid sealed, give the tub a good shake straight after injecting to spread your culture right through the grain. This is the reason the tub is only filled two thirds full, the headroom lets the grains tumble. Spreading the inoculant now means colonisation starts from many points at once rather than one wet spot.

Shake once now, immediately after inoculating.

Colonise the grain

Put the tub somewhere dark, still and steady. Aim for around 24C; anywhere in the 18 to 24C range is fine as long as it holds steady. Never sit it on a heat mat, it overheats the grain nearest it, dries the rest and causes condensation. Leave it closed and resist opening it. Within days you should see fuzzy white mycelium spreading from each point.

First white growth in a few days. Aim ~24C, steady. No heat mat.

Shake again at 60 to 70%

Once the grain is roughly 60 to 70% colonised with healthy white growth, give the closed tub one more firm shake to break up the clumps and scatter the mycelium onto the remaining bare grain. This noticeably speeds up the rest of the run. Only do this once, and only on clean, sweet-smelling grain. Shaking too hard or too often can stall things by not letting the mycelium re-establish; if anything looks or smells off, do not shake, check the Universal basics on contamination.

One shake at 60 to 70% colonisation. Gentle, just once.

Reach full colonisation

Return the tub to its steady spot and let the mycelium finish. The grain is ready when every kernel is bound in solid white with no bare patches left. A couple of extra days to consolidate makes it tougher when it meets the less-sterile bulk substrate. Never open the tub before it is fully colonised, an early lid-crack is the classic way to ruin a run.

Fully white grain in about 2 to 3 weeks from inoculation.

Spawn to bulk, then fruit

Now the tub does its real job. With clean hands and a wiped surface, break up the colonised grain and mix it evenly through your prepared bulk substrate, roughly one part grain to two or three parts bulk by volume. Level it in your fruiting container and let the surface knit fully white before moving to fruiting: a little cooler, around 20 to 22C. The general fruiting, fresh-air, humidity and dunking-between-flushes theory is all in the Universal basics. Harvest each flush just before the caps open fully.

Mix 1 part spawn to 2 to 3 parts bulk. Fruiting ~20 to 22C.

This tub is the multiplication stage

A SpawnTub exists to turn a few millilitres of culture into evenly spread, energetic grain that then races across a much larger bulk substrate. Colonising energetic grain first, rather than injecting bulk directly, gives the mycelium a fast, evenly distributed lead. For why a clean start matters and what a struggling run looks like, see the Universal basics.

Two shakes, no more

Shake once right after injecting to spread the culture, then once more at 60 to 70% to redistribute. That is it. Extra shaking just bruises the mycelium and slows the run.

Leave the pink filter on

The HEPA filter patch handles all the air exchange the grain needs. Peeling it off, or cracking the lid before the grain is fully colonised, is an open invitation to contamination.

Spawn at full white

Going to bulk before the grain is solidly white is the most common way to lose a run. A few extra days of consolidation pays off every time.

At a glance

Kit type: Sterile grain spawn (stage one of a two-stage bulk grow)
Grain: 400 to 450g organic rye with gypsum, filled to about two thirds
Ships as: Sealed, pre-sterilised, uninoculated
You add: 3 to 4ml of your own gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe
Inoculation: Through the self-healing lid port, then shake
Colonisation temp: Around 24C, steady (18 to 24C fine). No heat mat
Fruiting temp: A little cooler, around 20 to 22C
Grain colonisation: About 2 to 3 weeks to fully white
Spawn ratio: About 1 part grain to 2 to 3 parts bulk
Best for: Growers ready to run their own bulk grows with full control

SpawnTubs are the gateway from following a kit to genuinely growing your own. Get one tub right, learn to read healthy white grain, and you have the core skill behind every serious bulk grow.

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The basics, for every kit

Get these right and the rest is easy

Whichever kit you chose, the same handful of ideas decide whether it works. Read these once; your kit's guide above handles the specifics.

It is a race

Growing is a contest between your mushroom's mycelium and the moulds and bacteria that want the same food. You win by giving the mycelium every advantage: a sterile start and a steady, correct temperature so it outruns everything else. The grain or substrate that ships sterile is the part that must stay clean.

Work clean

You do not need a lab. A small, clean, draught-free room, fresh clothes, clean hands, the mask and wipes in your kit, and calm slow movements are enough for most people. Wipe any injection port before you pierce it, flame a reused needle until it glows, and keep handling to a minimum. A still-air box lowers the risk further if you want one.

Temperature is everything

Aim for around 24°C while it colonises. Anywhere from 18 to 24°C is fine as long as it stays steady, so avoid swings and watch for condensation. Never use a heat mat, the uneven heat causes condensation and condensation feeds contamination. For fruiting, drop it a little, to around 20 to 22°C.

Read your grow

Healthy mycelium is bright white and spreads evenly. Green, black, grey, slimy or sour means contamination, bin that part and keep it away from your other grows. A patch of yellow liquid is just metabolites, the mycelium's normal waste, not a problem. When in doubt, give the filter a gentle sniff: earthy and mushroomy is good, sour or sweet is bad.

Be patient

The single most common mistake is fiddling. Once it is colonising, leave it alone in its box, do not keep opening or moving it, and never open a kit before it is fully white throughout. If nothing seems to be happening, trace the edge of the growth with a marker and check again in a few days. Slow is not the same as stalled, and cold just means slow.

Fruiting and flushes

Once fully colonised, mushrooms need humidity, fresh air and a little light. The humidity comes from water held in the substrate, so you do not mist these kits unless they look dry. A small slit in the tent plus a fan in the room gives the fresh air that brings on pins. Harvest each mushroom just as the veil under the cap begins to tear. Between harvests, dunk the block in water to rehydrate it for the next flush; the first flush is always the biggest.

The one thing no kit includes: the culture.

Every kit ships sterile and ready to inoculate, so you supply the living part, a gourmet liquid culture or spore syringe. Liquid culture has known, predictable genetics and colonises faster; spore syringes are cheaper and varied but never fully sterile, so keep them at the cooler end while colonising. We make gourmet liquid cultures you can inoculate with.

When things look off

Troubleshooting

The common problems and what they usually mean. Most trace back to temperature, patience, or air.

Usually patience or temperature. Trace the edge of the mycelium with a marker and check in a few days. Cold slows growth right down without stalling it. If you cannot hold a steady warmth, an incubator is cheaper than heating the whole house. Genetics and species also vary, some are just slower.

That is metabolites, the mycelium's own waste, and it is completely normal. It is not contamination. Leave it be.

That is contamination, a mould or bacteria. Do not open it near your other grows. A small spot on grain can sometimes be cut out if you act fast and clean, but once it spreads through a substrate the grow is usually best discarded. Sour or sweet smells mean bacteria; earthy and mushroomy is healthy.

Almost always fresh air or humidity. Too little fresh air gives wispy mycelium and thin stems and no pins; widen the slit in the tent or add a little airflow in the room. If it looks dry, the humidity is escaping, check the fan is not too close and the cuts are not too big. Most species also want some indirect light to fruit.

Dab it off with a clean paper towel. Standing water turns contaminated quickly. It usually means temperatures are swinging, so condensation forms; steady the temperature and improve air exchange a touch.

Experienced growers on community forums like the Shroomery have decades of pooled knowledge and are a great place to take a specific problem. And remember the basics above: sterile start, steady temperature, patience, and fresh air at fruiting.

For cultivating legal gourmet mushroom species only.These guides cover edible gourmet cultivation. We trust you to grow responsibly and within the law.